Welcome to this new pattern making class, in today’s class we are going to make the toile (prototype) of the trouser block and we will talk about the most common fitting alterations.
You know that we always have to toile to make sure our patterns are perfect.
The class begins by doing a few checks on the patterns to make sure the seams and notches work perfectly.
Then we will go on to industrialize the patterns, you already know that industrializing is preparing the pattern for its production. In this case, we are going to put seam allowances.
As I am going to explain to you in today’s class, depending on the ease you put in the trouser block class, we will put different seam allowances.
Class
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You have already seen in today’s class that I have decided to put the opening of the trousers in the back. You can choose between putting the opening in the back or in the side seam.
Remember to make a stitch at the waist, as we did in the class of the skirt block. It is important to put that stitch to make sure the fabric does not stretch.
Besides, if you are not going to sew the zip for this toile, we are going to give it a stitch where it would go, so that when we close the piece, again, it does not stretch.
Some pattern systems include the straight waistband as the block pattern for the trousers but I do not include it, it is made exactly the same as the skirt.
Then I am going to show you the most common alterations when making trousers but remember that they are examples that will help you understand how to fix the pattern if it has not been perfect.
Keep in mind that when we make fitting alterations, look at how the garment is looking and see what it tells us we need to do.
Remember that if we are making alterations in circumference measurements (waist, hip…) we will have to divide the amount between the front and the back so that the seams are balanced.
As always, if you have any questions, you can send me an email through your user account in the support section.
Submit your exercises
You already know that the best way to learn pattern making is by doing it yourself, so for today’s class, I am going to ask you to make the prototype of the trouser block with the industrial measurements that I have given you.
You can do it on a half-scale or full size.
Remember to send me photos where I can see the final result clearly, both in front and back.
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so what if you have a big butt and the crotch is too short in the back or the back is too low how do u adjusted it
thank
Hi Tamara, Please send me the pictures of your toile from the support tab and I can have a proper look.
If the client has a big butt normally we need to play with the back darts.
Also, we need to see the crotch line, depending on how the fabric reacts that would tell us if we need to lower it or make it wider. Maybe both.