
Welcome to a new class of industrial pattern making, in today’s class we are going to make your first block pattern. The Skirt.
What is a block pattern?
Many professionals will say a block pattern is a basic pattern that sits very tight to the body (with zero ease or allowances) like a second skin.
To me (and many other professionals) a block pattern is the pattern that we can use over and over again (because we know it works and saves us time). The difference being that these pattern blocks have movement ease.
The ease or allowance is the extra space that we give to a pattern, it can be movement ease or design ease.
The movement eases are the extra centimetres given to the pattern so that customer can move freely.
The amount of movement ease you give will depend on the type of customer the garment is being made for (typically garments for older customers will have more movement ease than for younger).
For this skirt block class, I am not going to add any ease because I tend to like skirts with zero ease. In the class I will explain where you can give extra ease.
The Extra Materials section of the class will tell you how many extra centimetres to allow for more ease and gives you the industrial measurements of a women’s size 8 (UK).
Class
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Extra material
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Now we have our skirt block pattern, we have to make the toile (prototype) with calico and see if we have to modify the pattern. This is when you different amounts of ease to get the fit you want.
What did you think of today’s class? The skirt block is one of the first patterns that I learned and I think it is the best to start with.
Exercices
As you already know, the best way to learn is to practice.
For this class, I suggest you make your skirt block with the measurements that I have given you.
I ask that you make it with my measurements so that you can use that same pattern to perform all the transformations that I am going to teach you.
Then you can do it with your own measurements.
You can do it full-size or half-scale, please remember to tell me in the “Do you want to tell me something?”
If you want me to review the exercise, I will need you to use my measurements and send me a minimum of 2 photos of the process and 2 photos of the final result.
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Hi Marc! I am doing half scale skirt block, and a little bit confusing about measurments for dart. Do they have to be half as well? For example, when tou doing darts on back, you said darts should be 3 cm wide and 2 cm long. Should it be ,1.5 and 1 cm in mu case? Thanks
Hi Julija,
If you want to do in in half scale just divide everything by 2.
Sorry I think I said the number too quickly. The dart on the back is 12cm so half will be 6cm.
Thanks. Yes, i divided everything, but struggled with darts😀
I am so sorry if it was confusing !!
There is subtitles if you have any problem with my accent .
Hello!I want to make question.Why are you adding 3 cm to the waist line?And if ,for example,the difference between the waist and hips is smaller than how will this value?How to calculate this value based on different sizes ?Thank you very much!
Hello Nataliya,
I just sent you an email with your answers 🙂
Thank you 🙏
Good evening Sir! The pleat width for the front and back skirt is always 3cm for all sizes or it can vary by size?
I have the same question for the clamp depth please? Always the same values: 12cm on the back and 10cm on the front?
Thank you in advance for your answer.
Have a good evening Sir.
Good morning
This video is not showing it freezes before u draft the hip line can u check it out for me please
How to make the Skirt Block and adding the Ease
It’s working now
Hi Tamara, thanks for letting me know it is working now. I will check with the company that host my classes to see what was the problem. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Good evening Sir! The pleat width for the front and back skirt is always [Redacted] for all sizes or it can vary by size?
I have the same question for the clamp depth please? Always the same values: [Redacted] on the back and [Redacted] on the front?
Thank you in advance for your answer.
Have a good evening Sir.
Oh sorry. I was asking for dart’s width and there depth please.
Hello,
I just sent you an email answering your questions,
Check spam if you don’t see it
Have a great day