How to Make Trousers with a Fly Zip

Welcome to a new pattern making class. In today’s class, I will teach you how to make trousers with a classic fly zip and a curved waistband.

You will also learn to create a mock crease—a topstitch that mimics the look of freshly pressed trousers and gives the garment a more professional finish.

I have prepared this class because I wanted to show you, step by step, all the pattern pieces involved in constructing a classic fly zip, explaining the purpose of each piece and how they relate to one another.

We will start with the trouser block pattern. The first step is to choose the length of the garment; in my case, I will make a short version so that all the details can be seen more clearly on camera.

Next, we will make the curved waistband, as the length of the zipper needs to be taken into account.

Class

Next, we will draft all the necessary patterns to correctly construct a classic fly zip.

Finally, you will learn how to create the “fake pressed” look. In this step, we will add the necessary volume to achieve this effect properly.

It is important to keep in mind that the measurements and volume we add may vary depending on the thickness of the fabric—something I explain during the class.

Once you have finished this lesson, I recommend watching the class on how to sew a classic fly zip.

This way, you will have a much better understanding of how these patterns translate into the construction of the garment.

Remember that if you have any questions, you can send me an email via your student account in the Support section.

Submit your exercises.

The best way to learn pattern making is by practising. That’s why, for this class, I suggest you create all the patterns for these trousers by following the same process I show in the video.

If you decide to modify any detail, please let me know and explain the reason so I can take it into account when checking your exercise.

You can make the patterns at full size or half scale.

Please try to make sure the photos are clear so I can give you better feedback.