How to make a smoking collar

Welcome to a new pattern making class. In today’s class, I’m going to teach you how to make a smoking collar.

This collar is also known as a growing up/on or shawl collar.

The smoking collar is characterized by growing from the front pattern and turning outwards, creating a curved silhouette.

This collar is usually found on jackets but can also be seen on blouses and dresses.

Today’s class begins by tracing the front and back pattern of our bodice block, where first of all we will transform the darts.

Next, we are going to add a wrap to the front pattern where we will put the buttons – You could create this collar without the wrap.

To make this collar more comfortable to wear, we are going to widen the neckline, both at the front and the back.

Next, we will draw this collar on the front pattern, using the measurements from the back neckline.

We will finish today’s class by making the facings so we can clean up this collar and have a clean finish inside our garment.

Also, to make sure that the collar seam is not visible, we will have to reduce a part of this collar pattern.

Class

As always, I will give you all the necessary measurements to make the same design that I have done but remember that you can change it to your personal taste.

Please note that the size of the wrap changes depending on the final size of your button.

Remember that if you have any questions about today’s class, you can always send me an email through your student account, in the support section.

Send your exercises

You already know that the best way to learn is by practicing, so for today’s class I’m going to ask you to make the same patterns that I made.

You can make these patterns full size or half scale.

Please send me photos where the patterns and their annotations are clearly and accurately visible so that I can give you better feedback.