How to make a corset with pleated cups

Welcome to a new draping class. In today’s class, I’m going to teach you how to make a pointed corset with pleated cups.

We’re going to use this design to show you a new draping technique.

In previous classes, you already learned how to take patterns from the mannequin using masking tape.

Today, you will learn how to make patterns directly from the mannequin using mannequin guides or draping tape to design the pattern directly on the mannequin.

This class is a continuation of the previous class, so please watch that class before doing this one, or you won’t understand what we’re doing.

Today’s class begins with some theory so you understand what we’re going to do.

Something I want you to keep in mind is the fabric you need to use for this technique.

It has to be a fabric that doesn’t distort or stretch easily.

As I will explain in today’s class, I am going to use one that is see-through so you can see what I am doing, but it is not the correct fabric to use in this technique.

Today’s class begins by designing the corset directly on the mannequin using the guides or the draping tape.

Once you have the finished design, I will show you how to extract the patterns directly from the mannequin.

For personal preference, I then make a prototype before cutting the pleats for the cup, but the order of work is optional.

Class

Things I want you to keep in mind are that we always have to put the fabric on the grainline.

We also need to remove the selvedge and give it a good steam iron so that the fabric is ready for this technique (as I taught you in previous classes)

Remember that if you have any questions about today’s class, you can always send me an email through your student account, in the support section.

Submit your exercises

You know that the best way to learn is by practising, so for today’s class, I’m going to ask you to create a design similar to mine and extract its patterns.

You can make it at full size or half scale.

Remember that not all mannequins are suitable for this technique.

Please try to send me photos where the main design and its patterns are clearly visible so I can give you better feedback.