How to make a corset with cups

Welcome to a new draping class. In today’s class, I’m going to teach you how to make a corset with cups.

For today’s design, we’re going to make a classic corset with 3-piece bust cups.

In previous classes, you already learned that there are different ways to make patterns. Today I’m going to teach you a new way.

For this new way, we will use masking tape, where we will draw the patterns directly onto the mannequin.

There are mannequins for corsetry designed specifically for use with this technique, which have a negative ease waist and a more pronounced bust.

Although this technique can also be used on regular pattern-making mannequins.

Today’s class begins by explaining how to put masking tape on the mannequin, and we will put it on the necessary areas.

Next, we will draw the corset with cups directly on the mannequin.

In this step, I will show you that we need to add panels in order to convert a 3D design into a flat (or in other words, 2D) one.

Then we industrialise it, where we will have to add the seam allowance, the notches for the boning, among other elements.

To finish today’s class, we will talk about the boning that the corset needs and the theory of the necessary length.

Class

Remember to walk the pattern, because when using this technique, it is very important that you don’t forget.

This corset can be sewn in several ways; in today’s class, I propose that you clean this corset by cutting it twice.

Keep in mind that we could sew it another way; it will depend on the final fabric you want to use.

For the boning, in this case, they are sewn into the seam allowance in the lining, although we could also create channels by joining the outer and inner fabric.

Remember that if you have any questions about today’s class, you can always send me an email through your student account, in the support section.

Submit your exercises

As you know, the best way to learn is by practising, so for today’s class, I’m going to ask you to make corset patterns similar to the ones I’ve made.

For this class, you will need a mannequin to do it.

You can use different types of mannequins, as I explained in today’s class. Personally, I wouldn’t use a mannequin that adjusts the fits.

You can use a full-size or half-scale mannequin.

Please send me photos of the final result and of the process so I can give you better feedback.