Update: How to adjust the skirt – Common fitting mistakes

Welcome to a new pattern making class, in today’s class, I am going to teach you how to adjust the skirt block pattern.

In previous classes I taught you how to make the skirt block and how to make the prototype, today we will see different scenarios of possible errors that we may encounter.

When we make prototypes we can encounter different problems, it may have been too big or too small.

If it is too big, it is normal that you have excess fabric in the specific area, but remember that this volume may be due to movement ease.

If the prototype is too small, it is normal for you to have tension wrinkles or creases, this simply means that the fabric is pulling and wrinkles are created.

The amount to remove or put in the patterns will depend on your prototype and your personal taste.

Before you begin, remember that you may only have to make one alteration or you may have to combine these scenarios.

Class

The first scenario that we will encounter is if the waist is too large or too small, this transformation is done in the front and the back pattern.

The next scenario will be if the hip is too large or too small, remember that the pattern must have minimum movement ease.

We move on to see how to adjust the hip curve, here it will depend on the type of body you have, this curve changes.

Another scenario that we will see is how to adjust the dart length if it is too big or too small.

A very common mistake that I usually encounter is that the back length is too long and this creates wrinkles in the upper part of the back, also known as sway back.

Next, we will see how to balance the side seam if it is not in the correct place.

The last scenario we will see is when the stomach or butt is squeezed in the prototype and creates tension lines.